@freesewing/tamiko/src/top.mjs

A FreeSewing pattern for a zero-waste top

import { bustPlugin } from '@freesewing/plugin-bust'
import { pctBasedOn } from '@freesewing/core'

function tamikoTop({
  sa,
  Point,
  points,
  Path,
  paths,
  Snippet,
  snippets,
  options,
  measurements,
  store,
  macro,
  part,
}) {
  // Width at shoulders
  const shoulders = measurements.shoulderToShoulder

  // Width at chest
  const chest = (measurements.chest / 2) * (1 + options.chestEase)

  // Length
  const length =
    (1 + options.lengthBonus) * (measurements.hpsToWaistBack + measurements.waistToHips)

  // Armhole depth
  const arm = shoulders * options.armholeDepthFactor

  // Shoulder seam length
  const shoulderseam = shoulders * options.shoulderseamLength

  // Right shoulder seam
  points.shoulderEdge = new Point(0, 0)
  // Sew 5mm from edge, can't really scale this one with %
  points.armgapTop = new Point(5, 0)
  points.armgapNeck = points.armgapTop.shift(-90, shoulderseam)

  // Armhole
  points.bottomLeft = new Point(0, shoulders)
  points.armholeTop = new Point(shoulders / 4, shoulders)
  points.armholeBottom = points.armholeTop.shift(0, arm)
  points.armholePitch = points.armholeTop.shift(0, arm / 2).shift(90, arm / 5)
  points.armholePitchCp1 = points.armholePitch.shift(180, arm / 2.5)
  points.armholePitchCp2 = points.armholePitchCp1.flipX(points.armholePitch)

  // Left shoulder seam
  points.armholeNeck = points.armholeTop
    .shiftTowards(points.armgapNeck, shoulders * options.shoulderseamLength)
    .rotate(measurements.shoulderSlope, points.armholeTop)

  // Side seam
  points.armgapBottom = points.armgapTop.shift(0, arm)
  points.armgapBottom = points.armholeBottom.shiftTowards(points.armgapBottom, chest)
  points.sideBottom = points.armgapTop.shiftTowards(points.armgapBottom, length)
  points.sideEdge = points.armgapTop.shiftTowards(points.armgapBottom, length)

  // Rotate to reduce flare and balance garment
  const angle = points.armgapTop.angle(points.armgapBottom) / -2
  points.sideBottom = points.sideBottom.rotate(angle + options.flare, points.armgapBottom)

  // Top edge of garment
  points.sideEdge = points.armgapBottom.shiftFractionTowards(points.sideBottom, 1.1)

  // Finish rectangle
  points.bottomRight = points.armholeTop.shift(0, length)
  points.topRight = new Point(points.bottomRight.x, points.sideEdge.y)
  points.topLeft = new Point(0, points.topRight.y)
  points.topRight = new Point(points.bottomRight.x, points.topLeft.y)

  // Seamline
  paths.seam = new Path()
    .move(points.topLeft)
    .line(points.bottomLeft)
    .line(points.armholeTop)
    ._curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
    .curve_(points.armholePitchCp2, points.armholeBottom)
    .line(points.bottomRight)
    .line(points.bottomRight)
    .line(points.topRight)
    .close()
    .move(points.armgapTop)
    .line(points.armgapNeck)
    .move(points.armholeTop)
    .line(points.armholeNeck)
    .move(points.armgapBottom)
    .line(points.sideBottom)
    .attr('class', 'fabric')

  if (sa) {
    paths.sa = new Path()
      .move(points.armholeTop)
      ._curve(points.armholePitchCp1, points.armholePitch)
      .curve_(points.armholePitchCp2, points.armholeBottom)
      .offset(sa)
      .attr('class', 'sa fabric')
  }

  /*
   * Annotations
   */
  // Cutlist
  store.cutlist.setCut({ cut: 1, from: 'fabric', onFold: true })

  // Cutonfold
  macro('cutonfold', {
    from: points.bottomRight,
    to: points.bottomLeft,
    grainline: true,
    reverse: true,
    offset: points.armholeTop.dy(points.armholePitch) * 1.4,
  })

  // Title
  points.title = points.topLeft.shiftFractionTowards(points.bottomRight, 0.5)
  macro('title', { at: points.title, nr: 1, title: 'top' })

  // Logo
  points.logo = points.topLeft.shiftFractionTowards(points.bottomRight, 0.15)
  snippets.logo = new Snippet('logo', points.logo)

  // Scalebox
  points.scalebox = points.topLeft.shiftFractionTowards(points.bottomRight, 0.65)
  macro('scalebox', { at: points.scalebox })

  // Notches
  macro('sprinkle', {
    snippet: 'notch',
    on: ['armgapTop', 'armgapNeck', 'armgapBottom', 'armholeNeck', 'sideBottom'],
  })

  // Dimensions
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wEdgeToSideTop',
    from: points.topLeft,
    to: points.armgapBottom,
    y: points.topLeft.y - 15,
  })
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wEdgeToSideBottom',
    from: points.topLeft,
    to: points.sideBottom,
    y: points.topLeft.y - 30,
  })
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wFull',
    from: points.topLeft,
    to: points.topRight,
    y: points.topLeft.y - 45,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hSideToSideBottom',
    from: points.sideBottom,
    to: points.topLeft,
    x: points.sideBottom.x + 15,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hEdgeToSideTop',
    from: points.armgapBottom,
    to: points.topLeft,
    x: points.topLeft.x - 15,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hShoulderToTop',
    from: points.armgapTop,
    to: points.topLeft,
    x: points.topLeft.x - 30,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hFull',
    from: points.bottomLeft,
    to: points.topLeft,
    x: points.topLeft.x - 45,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hShoulderSeam',
    from: points.armgapNeck,
    to: points.armgapTop,
    x: points.armgapTop.x + 15,
  })
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wSideToHps',
    from: points.bottomLeft,
    to: points.armholeNeck,
    y: points.bottomLeft.y + 15,
  })
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wSideToShoulder',
    from: points.bottomLeft,
    to: points.armholeTop,
    y: points.bottomLeft.y + 30,
  })
  macro('hd', {
    id: 'wArmhole',
    from: points.armholeTop,
    to: points.armholeBottom,
    y: points.bottomLeft.y + 30,
  })
  macro('vd', {
    id: 'hArmhole',
    from: points.armholeTop,
    to: points.armholePitch,
    x: points.armholePitch.x,
  })

  return part
}

export const top = {
  name: 'tamiko.top',
  plugins: [bustPlugin],
  draft: tamikoTop,
  measurements: ['shoulderToShoulder', 'chest', 'hpsToWaistBack', 'shoulderSlope', 'waistToHips'],
  optionalMeasurements: ['highBust'],
  options: {
    armholeDepthFactor: { pct: 50, min: 40, max: 60, menu: 'fit' },
    chestEase: { pct: 2, min: 1, max: 20, ...pctBasedOn('chest'), menu: 'fit' },
    flare: { deg: 15, min: -10, max: 30, menu: 'style' },
    lengthBonus: { pct: 13, min: 0, max: 60, menu: 'style' },
    shoulderseamLength: { pct: 10, min: 5, max: 25, menu: 'style' },
    draftForHighBust: { bool: false, menu: 'fit' },
  },
}